Fesenjan: The Persian Stew That Tastes Like Nothing Else in the World

Fesenjan is the Persian stew people miss the most when they are far from home. I have heard this from multiple people who grew up eating it, and tasting it explains why immediately. The sauce turns this deep, brownish-black color from the walnuts and molasses, and the flavor is unlike anything else — tart, earthy, rich, and complex in a way that is genuinely hard to describe before you have tried it.

It takes time. Every minute is doing something.

The walnuts

Toast 300g of shelled walnuts in a dry pan over medium heat for about five minutes until fragrant. Let them cool, then process in a food processor until very finely ground — almost a powder. They should release some of their natural oils in this step.

Place the ground walnuts in a saucepan with 400ml of water. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat and cook, stirring frequently, for about 20 minutes. The mixture will thicken and the walnut oil will begin to separate and appear on the surface. This is what you want.

The braise

Brown chicken thighs on the bone in a heavy pot — skin on, in batches over medium-high heat — until golden on both sides. Remove and set aside.

In the same pot, soften a large onion in a little oil over medium heat for about twelve minutes until golden. Add the cooked walnut mixture and stir to combine with the onions. Add four tablespoons of pomegranate molasses and stir everything together.

Return the chicken to the pot. The liquid should come almost up to the top of the chicken — add a little water if needed. Cover and simmer over low heat for 45 minutes.

Finishing

Remove the lid. Taste the sauce. This is where you adjust the balance: add sugar if it tastes too tart, more pomegranate molasses if it needs more depth, salt if it tastes flat. Simmer uncovered for another fifteen to twenty minutes until the sauce has reduced to a thick, almost glossy consistency and the color has deepened to a rich dark brown.

Serve over saffron rice — steep a few threads of saffron in warm water and stir through cooked basmati. Scatter pomegranate seeds over the top if available. They add brightness to a very dark-sauced dish.