Colombian Ajiaco: Three Potatoes, One Soup, Nothing Else Like It

Ajiaco is the soup Colombians from Bogotá go home for. It is also the soup they make when they are far from home and missing it. The altitude of Bogotá, the climate, and the specific vegetables that grow there all factor into why this dish exists. You can approximate it anywhere. You will not fully replicate it. Make it anyway.

The chicken

Start with a whole chicken or chicken pieces on the bone — thighs and drumsticks work well. Place in a large pot with a whole onion halved, a bunch of fresh cilantro tied together, three garlic cloves, two corn on the cob cut into rounds, and enough cold water to cover everything by several centimeters.

Bring to a boil, skim the foam, then reduce to a simmer. Cook for 45 minutes. Remove the chicken, shred the meat, and discard the skin and bones. Strain the broth back into the pot and discard the aromatics. The corn rounds go back in.

The potatoes

Add three types of potato: about 300g of papa criolla or Yukon Gold cut into small pieces, 300g of russet or floury potato in medium chunks, and 300g of a waxy potato in chunks. Add a generous amount of dried guascas — about two tablespoons. Season the broth well with salt.

Simmer uncovered for 30 minutes. The small yellow potatoes will dissolve into the broth, thickening it to a texture that is almost creamy without any added cream. The other potatoes will soften but maintain more structure.

Return the shredded chicken to the pot and warm through.

Serving

Ladle into deep bowls, making sure each bowl gets a round of corn. Place a small jug of heavy cream and a small dish of capers on the table. Each person adds them to their own bowl. A sprig of fresh cilantro in each bowl finishes it.

The soup is the meal. Bread alongside if you want something to hold.